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serious team building began when we (the gallant five trekkers!)
arrived at The Atlantic Hotel in Paddington – a
vast+ seedy warren of a hotel that reminded me of all the worst
moments of my past student life. The test was to get our huge
and heavy backpacks and our day packs up to the 3rd floor-
without the luxury of a lift!!! This accomplished we knew that
we could live and trek together for the next 10 days.
We arrived in Havana in the early hours
of the morning after a 10-hour flight with some extremely
grumpy and matronly members
of the cabin crew having made us feel like giggling schoolgirls.
Our guide Luis, who was to be with us for most of the trek,
met us and took us to our hotel. Before we set out on the trek
we had a tour of Havana’s old city with its fabulous
colonial Spanish architecture. Many of the buildings are in
a state of decay, but some have been renovated and as money
from tourism comes into the country it is being used to rebuild
the City and conserve these fantastic buildings- many of which
house ‘ordinary people.’ The streets were full
of old American cars like Buiks + Chevvies – crammed
with people. It was like journeying back in time!
A local carnival was happening during our stay and in the evening
we joined with the hundreds of people celebrating and enjoying
the spectacle. Cuban people seemed to radiate warmth and good
humour. As we wandered among the crowds we felt safe, there
were no violence or aggression.
Following our acclimatisation, we journeyed by minibus through
Matanzas Province towards the start of the Escambray Mountains.
We had a spectacular detour to Santa Clara to visit Che Guevara’s
mausoleum. A statue of Che stands on a tall plinth surrounded
by other impressive visual images. For me, this was quite an
emotional moment. Che, one of my all time heroes, had died
in Bolivia and his remains and those of 17 other revolutionaries
had been recovered in a mass grave in 1997 and brought back
to Santa Clara to be commemorated in this way.
The trek began on the slopes of the
Escambray Mountains with the Hanabanilla Trail. This trail
wound its way around a vast
man made lake with spectacular views as we climbed. As well
as Luis, we had a botanist who walked beside us pointing out
unusual plants and animals. They were both amazingly knowledgeable – and
their explanations gave us time to catch our breath as we gained
higher ground. After lunch and a short boat trip across the
lake to, we were met by the transport that was to take us across
the rugged mountain terrain- a large antiquated Russian military
truck. Travelling in this was more fun than any ride at Alton
Towers!! We arrived at our first hacienda- (Casa de Callega)
where we would camp for the night, but before we settled into
our tents we trekked to a beautiful waterfall ( Salto del Rocio)The
journey back to the hacienda was extremely difficult- mainly
because about 20 minutes in nightfall descended!!! Luckily
our ‘new’ guide, Elios, had fantastic vision and
was the most sure-footed human I have ever seen. He spent much
of the remainder of the trek leaping up, down and over really
treacherous terrain without once stumbling or falling over-
unlike the rest of us!
That night I slept in a tent – on my own. This was the
first time I had been away from my family for such a length
of time – and the solitude was bliss.
Early next morning we took the truck to La Chispa and walked
to our next Hacienda Codina. This was a beautiful place surrounded
by an ecological reservation, which we explored later that
day. This trail called, Encantes de Codina (Codina’s
Wonders’ or La Alfambra Magica – The Flying Carpet)
included an orchid garden where rare orchids were being propagated
and a bamboo garden with a collection of many different bamboos.
In the middle of this, next to a tranquil pond, was a meditation
space built by Fidel Castro’s brother.
Over the next two days we trekked through lush vegetation,
surrounded by exotic plants and trees laden with bananas. We
trekked to another large waterfall, Salto Javira, where everyone
(except me) swam beneath the cascading water. (I am terrified
of deep water!) We visited a coffee plantation where beans
were lying on the ground roasting. The experience of seeing
the family home on this plantation, a small 3 roomed, single
storey building made of wattle and daub, was a singularly moving
moment. Each room contained the minimum of furniture and very
few personal belongings; a saddle and spurs in one room+ a
change of clothes in another. The walls were bare except for
a picture of Che and the floor was cleanly swept mud. I now
try to keep this picture in my mind when the excessive demands
of our western consumer society beckon. Being there –and
being offered freshly brewed coffee and home grown bananas
from people who appear to have very little materially, made
me question our society’s values even more.
A few other related things spring to mind about Cuban society.
When we were travelling we often saw women hitch hiking- and
we questioned how safe this was, mentioning that women in our
society would be literally taking their lives in their hands
if they did this. We were told that because the Cuban economy
had been supported by Russia – and that now that the
Russian economy was in such desperate state, petrol was a luxury.
People had to hitch. However, there was an extremely low incidence
of rape or murder. Also that people tended to still live very
much in extended families/communities and still look out for
each other, in a way that seems to be rare here. If there was
an incidence of fighting in a community then the police would
be called- but also individuals would intervene and stop the
fighting. I thought about us- and our reluctance to get involved.
From the mountains we made our descent towards Trinidad. For
me this was the most arduous day’s trekking. This was
mainly because of the need to concentrate fully on where we
placed our feet. Most of the time we walked in what seemed
to be dry riverbeds, walking downhill all the time on sliding
stones. I finished the trek feeling a real sense of achievement,
but with a thumping head from the need to focus.
I want to recommend a trek like this
to all of you. It was hard work: from finding creative ways
to fund raise; maximising
publicity for the trek; finding the time to do all of this,
keep working, doing family stuff- and trying to train to be
fit enough!!! However, I spent 10 days with 4 fantastic women
and shared stories, experiences and most of all laughs. We
had time to reflect on life and to learn about another culture.
Each of us set out to raise £2,500 for The Haven- to
support their work with women who experience domestic violence;
something we were all committed to – and have achieved.
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